In 1993, at the age of 91, my maternal grandmother, Wilhelmina Kiesel Cooke Carlson, decided to sell her Santa Barbara condominium and move into a senior care home. She invited me over for tea one day in the midst of packing, and gave me a box of letters and mementos, and a small black photo album. The album was very old and worn, and full of photographs and newspaper clippings about my grandfather, R.L. “Doc” Cooke, who had been the superintendent of the Kalaupapa “Leprosy Settlement” on the Hawaiian island of Molokai for 14 years until his death in 1939.
I was astounded. She and my mother had rarely mentioned Doc, and neither had ever talked about their life at the settlement. I wrapped it carefully, like an ancient relic, and put it away until I’d have time to really get into it. Life galloped off with me, and I moved from California to New Mexico, back to California, to Wyoming, and finally, back to New Mexico. I’d divorced, changed jobs and homes, and finally, met my life’s love, Dan, in 1996.
In 1997 Dan and I were going to vacation on Maui. When I told my mother I was going to Hawaii, she wistfully told me that she’d like to see Kalaupapa once more before she died. She reminisced just enough to get me hooked. An idea began forming in my mind.
When Dan and I stepped off of the plane, I breathed in the warm, moist air – heavenly! It was my first time in Hawaii and I felt an incredible sense of heritage. I’d taken the photo album with me in hopes of making some contacts at Kalaupapa; someone who might have known my family when they were there; someone who could help us make arrangements to visit the settlement.
I had no luck -“The loneliest place in the world” is not an easy place to network.
In 1998 I decided to make copies of the album to give to my family as Christmas presents. Scanning and retouching the creases and spots from each photo and article meant spending hours every day immersed in the people and events at Kalaupapa during the years 1925 through 1939. There were days when, walking into the kitchen to join Dan for lunch, I actually felt as though I was stepping out of one time and place and into another.
The more familiar I became with these faces and places, the more I wanted to know about them. My grandmother’s failing hearing and increasing dementia made questioning her impossible. My mother and uncle gave me what information they could, but they were just small children during their time at Kalaupapa, and were sent to live on another island when they were still quite young.
I was going to have to rely on outside sources.
I contacted the Department of Health in Hawaii and was able to obtain my grandfather’s marriage and death certificates. The marriage certificate listed the groom’s name as “Robert Leslie Cooke”; the death certificate also listed him as “Robert Leslie Cooke”, but then “Robert” was crossed out, and “Ralph” written in it’s place. There are a couple other entries that are listed as “unknown” and then crossed out and revised, dealing with his parents birthplaces and mother’s maiden name. The mystery lover in me was intrigued.
The name on his grave marker at the Oahu Cemetery is “Ralph Leslie Cooke”. Newspaper articles and mementos refer to him alternately as “R.L.Cooke”, “Robert Cooke”, “Ralph Cooke”, “Doc Cooke”, and “Superintendent Cooke”. Uncle Biff has old U.S. Navy medal of Doc’s, inscribed “Ralph L. Cook / U.S.S. K-7, August 14, 1916 C.S.C 3234” and yet, one small newspaper article in the photo album reports that a brush inscribed “R.L.Cooke USS F-4” was found washed up on shore. The article described the finding of the brush and reported that “Chief Electrician Cooke was lost when the F-4 foundered during diving operations off Honolulu”. All 21 crew members perished. Huh?
I searched online databases for his birth and navy records to no avail – I could locate nothing to give me a clue about his life before he arrived in Hawaii. I know he was married twice before marrying my grandmother, and that he had two daughters by his second wife.
Handed down from the family grapevine were a few possible clues: his parents were German; the family name may have originally been “Koch”; his grandmother was full-blooded Delaware Cherokee from Ohio. Since I have been unable to locate any Ohio or Kentucky census records with my grandfather or his parents listed on them, I can’t verify any those clues as fact.
I bought all the books I could find about the history of Kalaupapa, hoping to discover something about Doc, but he is mentioned only briefly in two books that I found: “Home Country” by the beloved American war correpondent Ernie Pyle (see “Home Country” section), and in a short passage by Olivia Robello Breitha in her book “Olivia – My Life of Exile in Kalaupapa“. I was frustrated by the lack of any other information about him.
In the box of mementos I came across some letters to my grandmother from Anwei Skinsnes Law, founder of the Hansen’s disease organization IDEA (international association for Integration, Dignity and Economic Advancement) and author of numerous books, articles, and a movie about leprosy. She had corresponded with my grandmother for years, and even interviewed her about her days at Kalaupapa. I tracked Anwei down in 1996, and she offered to send me transcripts of her interviews with my grandmother. However, before I could get the transcripts from her, we somehow lost touch.
In the year 2000, on February 14th, Wilhelmina died at the age of 97. Dan and I had visited her and she didn’t know me; dementia had her living in alternate realities, talking about going to work at the bank the next day.
Below are excerpts from the website I created in 2002 in an attempt to make some connections that would enable me to get my mother back to Kalaupapa…
August 29, 2002
My mother’s eyesight is failing; she inherited my grandmother’s Macular Degeneration and has lost the sight in her left eye this year. She has said that her dearest wish is to see her childhood home at Kalaupapa once more, and so my husband and I are traveling with my parents to Molokai in January. I have created this website with what information I have, to see if I can make some contacts on Molokai. My hope is that the website, like a message in a bottle, will float through the ethernet to someone who will be able to help fill in some of the gaps for me.
There are so many things I want to see: St. Philomena Church at Kalawao, where Brother Dutton was laid to rest next to Father Damien and where my grandfather oversaw the exhumation and return to Belgium of Father Damien’s remains; the sidewalk where my mother and uncle pressed their little feet into cement for posterity; and the place Ernie Pyle mentions in Home Country, where my toddler mother crawled between the legs of a corralled horse while the Hansen’s patients looked on in helpless terror.
December 3, 2002
Today I received an e-mail from a woman named Valerie Monson. She’s a reporter for the Maui News, and she came upon my website on the internet while doing research. She has written about Kalaupapa for 14 years and has traveled to Belgium for Father Damien events, and to other countries for conferences regarding the rights of people afflicted with Hansen’s Disease (Leprosy).
She asked if she might interview my mother and me when we are in Hawaii – she is working on a project about people who have discovered family ties in Kalaupapa. And, oh yes, if there was anything she could do to help?
I was jumping for joy.
January 15, 2003
Valerie has helped me with transporation information and has arranged for us to stay in the Kalaupapa Visitor’s Quarters for two nights! You can only stay in the Visitor’s Quarters if you know someone at Kalaupapa who will sponsor you. Our sponsor is a friend of Valerie’s: Father Joseph Hendriks, the priest of St. Francis Church. We’ll be taking the Father Damien Tour, and Valerie is making all kinds of arrangements for us once we are there. She has been an answer to a prayer.
With her help, I know this trip is going to be everything I could possibly hope for.
July 22, 2003
I write this today, exactly 116 years after my grandfather was born. It has taken some time, but the story of our journey to Kalaupapa is finally finished. It was a once in a lifetime adventure and yes, better than I ever could have imagined. To read about our travels and see pictures, go to the “The Footprint Girl” pages.
When I originally created this introductory page almost a year ago, I wrote: “My hope is that this website, like a message in a bottle, will float through the ethernet to someone who will be able to help fill in some of the gaps for me.” Miraculously, that happened sooner, and better than I ever could have expected.
Now my hope is that you will take a step back in time and come to know my grandfather during his years at Kalaupapa. This is his story ~ a story that has waited patiently for more than half a century in a small, black photo album.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
February 4, 2014
Our trip to Kalaupapa, 11 years ago now, is still a potent and wonderful memory. My mother is almost completely blind now and struggles with dementia, but she loves to have me read to her from the “The Footprint Girl” pages and together we relive our time there.
Val and I continue to be friends and she keeps me up to date on her organization, “Ka’Ohana O’Kalaupapa“, which works to preserve the history of the people of Kalaupapa and has helped many people locate their long-lost ancestry.
My wonderful husband, Dan, love of my life, died in December of 2007.
I’ll always be grateful to him for helping to make our incredible “Footprint Girl” trip happen.
~ Jean Fogelberg